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工網友一致推薦商時報【姚舜】
全台灣最大的酒窖餐廳〈La Grande Vinotheque 吉悅〉有新的變化，除原本出租給富商名流的私人酒窖已被超過20萬瓶各式好酒占滿而完全滿租，故主人藍先生有意將酒窖擴建，好讓更多酒饕可儲放美酒，餐廳的廚藝團隊也已全面換血，由「7年5班」的女生羅伊琪擔任主廚，帶著一群女生在內場廚房裡作菜，使得〈La Grande Vinotheque 吉悅〉也已成為高檔餐飲市場中唯一的「完全女廚餐廳」。學生時代曾在台北與全國西餐技能大賽得到全國第一名的羅伊琪說，自己做菜喜歡多方嘗試而不喜歡被既有框架限制，她更喜歡將亞洲辛佐料與「酸」的元素融入在義法菜餚中詮釋味道， 所以如今〈吉悅〉也又有新菜可品，其中又以加了諸如梅干菜、檳榔花或櫻花蝦等台灣元素提味的菜餚，最教人見獵心喜、食指大動。
2010年開幕、隱身在台北市塔悠路不起眼公寓內的〈吉悅〉，除地下室有溫度、濕度控制極嚴的酒窖，出租給愛酒人士儲酒，並請到著名設計師關傳雍設計高檔餐廳與百萬音響視廳娛樂室，〈吉悅〉主人Jerry藍更期許提供高級義法料理的餐廳要能體現台灣風土，為食客帶來不同的味覺體驗。
羅伊琪本季烹調料理的菜餚，也都按著Jerry的理念去詮釋演繹，菜餚形色很西方，卻內蘊「台灣味」，掌廚者「用心」，食客「會心」。
享用美式牛排，通常只用鹽、胡椒提味，但法菜料理重醬汁，即使是牛排亦會有醬汁提味。傳統法式牛排醬汁Gravy則是用牛骨與牛肉、牛筋與紅酒一起熬成，羅伊琪除了用波特酒取一般紅酒，並在Gravy中加了梅干菜豐富滋味。
梅干菜？是的！與酸菜和福菜屬同一家族的梅干菜，經過風乾與日曬後，等於重複濃縮，所以風味更馥郁香濃且細嚼會回甘，牛排醬汁中加了梅干菜提味，自然內蘊那股類似發酵熟成的獨特陳香，且讓西方牛排增加了一點「熟悉的味道」，是很成功的玩味創意。
羅伊琪詮釋的〈紐西蘭自然生態養殖菲力羊排〉，所用醬汁則是在Gravy中加了八角、肉桂、陳皮和花椒等中菜常用的辛香料提味。花椒，可以去腥膻與異味，陳皮則有甘味，八角和肉桂則可增加「東方香味」，融合羊骨醬汁後用來與羊排搭配，味道也很搭配。
〈吉悅〉本季推出的時令套餐，其實都有台灣當令食材入饌，在羅伊琪構思下，這些台灣食材也都能「稱職」地扮演增加風味或豐富口感的角色，且邏輯清楚、不是為了展現愛台風範而「硬湊」。
例如〈冷燻熟成櫻桃鴨胸佐薑味芒果芝麻葉沙拉〉的鴨胸肉，是羅伊琪自己醃漬熟成再燻製，味道鹹鮮與火腿有幾分神似，口感則細滑如絲綢，切片搭配的芒果則用巴薩米哥白醋稍為醃過，使酸度更深沈，所以此水果入饌的菜餚，宛如用〈帕瑪火腿搭哈蜜瓜〉，表現令人驚艷激賞。
用櫻花蝦脆片、櫻花蝦油，以及檳榔花與〈白蘆筍冷湯〉搭配，也是很「對味」的邏輯。白蘆筍湯內蘊清甜，用鹹鮮櫻花蝦搭配可以互補幫襯，口感清爽的檳榔花則除了增加口感脆度，並頗能消暑。
〈酒蒸石斑襯蛤蠣湯〉的碗底有慢煨冬瓜，魚肉上並放了北海道海膽增加鮮甜，提味的泡沬則是用日式柴魚湯昆布湯與蛤蠣湯合煮並加了少許鮮奶油打成，味道嘗來也很東方。肉質原本就很柔嫩的匈牙利蒙娜麗豬，用Sous-vide法烹調更能展現這豬肉的天生麗質，羅伊琪用紅甜菜醬汁賦味，使肉色更加紅潤，邊菜〈油封麻竹筍〉，增加微脆口感，並讓菜餚添香。
以在地食材入菜，是當今食壇的顯學，很多新銳主廚並喜歡標榜在義法菜餚中加入台灣元素，企圖以「愛台」訴求區隔市場並形塑賣點。但料理必須講究邏輯與協調均?，有些人硬橋硬馬的愣是在菜裡加了台灣食材，往往突兀，而科班出身的羅伊琪在同齡廚師中表現亮眼，沒這個問題。
INDEX
■La Grande Vinotheque吉悅酒窖餐廳
地址︰台北市塔悠路317號
電話︰02-27475888
下面附上一則新聞讓大家了解時事
（中央社記者郭朝河吉隆坡16日專電）交通部觀光局吉隆坡辦事處今日舉辦台灣觀光推廣會，有台灣46位相關業者組團參加，駐馬來西亞代表章計平也出席，希望帶動大馬人潮前往台灣旅遊。
這場推廣會於吉隆坡普爾曼飯店舉行，除了台灣旅遊業者，也有許多大馬旅遊業者出席交流。這次推廣會結合不同風格的飯店旅館、特色主題樂園與風景區、體驗農村樂趣的休閒農場以及旅客最愛的美味伴手禮等，共同推展全台各異其趣的旅遊資訊，希望能為大馬旅遊業者帶來更多精彩的台灣旅遊配套選擇。
觀光局吉隆坡辦事處主任SALE曹逸書也在現場分享台灣觀光的各種好康，希望能透過更多精彩的資訊，讓大馬業者能更了解台灣旅遊市場的商機。
章計平表示，這次活動顯示台灣對於大馬觀光市場的重視。去年台灣與大馬雙邊互訪人次達到70萬人次，其中大馬訪台人數達43萬多人次，是來台市場第6位，是台灣在東南亞最重要的觀光客源。
他說，近年來在航空業、旅遊業及觀光局努力下，加上大馬媒體的積極宣傳，讓大馬民眾前往台灣旅遊觀光的熱潮不減。他相信憑藉安全、深度和特色旅遊，加上台灣人的熱情和真誠，能吸引大馬遊客繼續前往台灣旅遊。1050516
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留言列表
